A.I.S.A. is a fantastic resource for mobile guitar repair
Our organization has a vast amount of professionals which probably represents hundreds' years of hands on experience . A.I.S.A. is a fantastic resource for many of our members to learn from each other. We are very fortunate to have such a diversified group of instrument artisans, primarily musicians with a passion and devotion to the craft . A study of our Membership Directory, gives enlightenment to how similar we are , yet unique in our own ways. Our methods are generally similar, except for some variations that creates a gateway into our own individualism that is illuminated in our work. No matter what level of expertise, this publication provides information as well as satisfaction knowing that there are others with similar interests and goals. I am sure that most of us are aware that a good portion of our membership is students. This month's article is directed toward the student, but hopefully may be of interest to most.
Prior to starting any warranty work for manufacturers , obtain the specifications for nut dimensions and cut and trim accordingly. I prefer to custom make a nut to my interests for non-warranty jobs, unless the customer requires something more specific. Fabricate nuts to fit the instrument, assuring intonation at the first and twelfth frets, and the open note. This may take longer than the prescribed method of installation by slotting depths with feeler gauges as a reference. Rough cut the notches after it is secured into place. Then, once the strings are in place, certain the intonation is good, fine cut to the corresponding string thickness and proper depth until the first fret note is perfectly intonated. Then go to the next string and do the same and so forth with the remaining strings. Keep note that the intonation at the twelfth fret remains true from before you started and each step of the way. Make the rough cuts very close to the proper height , this way you are only trimming, so at this stage the intonation at the twelfth should be right on. If the intonation at the twelfth fret changes , chances are you may have done something wrong. Be sure the intonation at the bridge is set prior to removing the old nut and strings that were on the guitar. Measurements should be noted prior to removing the old nut. You will need to maintain that reference to cut a nut with my method. Of course, be certain to tune up to pitch using an accurate tuner .
Sometimes the most difficult step would be to remove the old nut, without causing damage to the nut and surrounding area.. Always make a full size template of the string spacing of the original nut and compare to a Shatten Nut Spacing ruler for any differences. [Source: Les Shatten Design, Inc. c/o Stewart-MacDonald's Guitar ShopSupply, 1-800-848-2273 catalog number 3418] Your customer should shed light their playing concerns. Removing the nut is a critical step and requires that you gingerly loosen the old nut . This is where damage could occur to the fingerboard and wood in front of the nut. Do not force the nut out! Heat is a nice choice to soften up surrounding glue and any over spray. I use a Halogen flexible spot light to direct heat to the nut.[Source: McMaster-Carr Supply , 1-908-329-3200 catalog number 8366K31] Mask off the surrounding area to avoid any damage. You must monitor very closely and remove the nut immediately after the glue starts to lose strength. Don't cook the finish! A good tool to use for removing the loose nut is an end nipper, but be careful not to cleave the nut by applying excess pressure.[Fig.One]It is best to remove the nut intact with minimal damage. You may want to save the old nut for future reference. Next , clean out the slot using a file with the same width as the slot. Clean up the residual glue , preparing a good surface for the new nut. Do not remove wood if you can help it, otherwise your labor will increase dramatically.A good idea is to measure the depth of the slot in relation to the fingerboard. A depth gauge is the tool of choice and available from most woodworking or machinist supply houses.[Fig.Two]Do not angle your file as it will most likely pitch the slot.
Fabrication of the nut from a blank provides the most accurate simulation of the original nut. I prefer to make all of my nuts from blanks because I haven't been satisfied with pre-made/slotted parts available.[Fig.Three] On inexpensive instruments the client usually elects the pre-made if I have it in stock. For our purposes, we will focus on cutting from a blank. At this point , the material should be selected by the customer, based on your advice. Then, trace out the size with a marker, and cut on your favorite saw. I use a scroll saw then shape it on a belt sander following the marker line.Sometimes, the belt sander is all you need. Dust can be a real problem and therefore a dust mask should be worn. Dust should be vented when in confined area.
Once the nut is cut, the option of installing the nut is your choice. On this axe, I knew the owner had a rather rough method of handling his guitar, so I chose to epoxy this bad boy in for eternity. If I do three "nutjobs" in a row there's a good chance I'll use three different glues. Even on a real tight fit, the new nut will be positioned dry with only a drop of Titebond adhesive. Always mask off the headstock before adding glue to the slot. The two part, five minute set up time epoxy was applied with a spatula.[Fig. Four] Hardman Epoxy comes in a bubble pack [Hardman, Inc. 1-201-751-3000 re-order number 04001] After the glue sets, trim the nut as mentioned earlier.A sure fire method of determining how well the glue has cured is to examine the residual epoxy on the mixing tray. Leave the spatula/stick in the excess glue and later pull it up off the board. If it's tacky, you should extend the cure time. Choices of files are available from most instrument building /repair suppliers. Select thickness of the files in comparison to the corresponding string diameter.
After you clean up the area , start slotting the nut with the strings on. Down tune each string individually and pull it up away from the slot . Make a few strokes with the appropriate file, place string in its' slot and tune up the string. Then check the open note, followed by the twelfth fretted note and ending with the first fret note. Caution: If you cut the slot too deep , you blew the nut. Don't be tempted to hog off too much material at once. Repeat this procedure for each string. A good guideline to follow is that if the note at the twelfth is on pitch and the open string is good,but the note at the first fret is sharp, then continue to cut slightly deeper. Place string back in the nut slot , restore up to pitch and repeat until perfect.
The string should be located snug at the bottom of the slot. About half of the string diameter will be seated in order it to function properly. After completion, tune up all the strings, double check the intonation at the bridge, nut , first and twelfth frets. Perform your usual set up and you are done.
PICK'S QUICK FIX:
This is a very dusty job to do and a dust collector is the main choice and rather expensive. So if you have a shop-vac ,you have a mini dust collector. Clamp the shop-vac hose near the workpiece or on your beltsander.I found that a fan-shaped attachment , similar to the one used at the local carwash works great. Just clamp the attachment into place, turn on the shop-vac and then cut away with your power tool. Remember , it pays to give a good tip at the carwash!
Bass Guitar Amp
